Last Updated: February 15, 2004
Unfortunately, Mark is selling "Earth's Breath". It needs some cosmetic work and he is taking this into account with the sales price. He is located in Northern Indiana and you can contact him at the following e-mail address firstname.lastname@example.org. Hopefully, she will get a good home.
Mark has provided us with some modifications and work he has done on his Sanibel 18.
If you have questions, you can e-mail Mark at email@example.com
|The boat painted top and bottom with hatches back in and hatch slides on. The water line stripe is not on yet and will have to wait for next year.|
I don't work in teak if I can avoid it. It is harder on the tools and harder on your lungs if a little gets past the dust mask. So most of the new wood on Earth's Breath is yellow pine or poplar. Some oak is used. For painting and glass repair instructions I have used 'This Old Boat' by Don Casey. I had used his book to do some work on another aging fiberglass boat years ago including sewing a new interior and found it very helpful. His instructions for sewing are easier to understand than most others I have seen. Another good source is "The Big Book of Boat Canvas" by Karen Lipe. http://www.seafaring.com/international/inbigcanv.htm Lipe has more projects than Casey. There are no sewing projects in this refurbishment (so far) but I will share with you that I use a 1923 Singer table top and although it is not suitable for sewing sails (it wont zig zag, the foot is too small, and the stitch length is not long enough) it will sew everything else on a boat, and won't complain when you run four layers of canvas through it. The needles will break first. I bought mine at a garage sale for $15.00. It is also very attractive in a way that few things made today are.
The paint is PETTIT EASYPOXY. The Off White is 3108. Per the recommendations I put it on very thin to prevent sags and drips, and so it would cure. Despite being a very close match it took two coats to cover. The Midnight Blue took three coats to cover, and the Red took four. The Red and the Off White look very good. I put the first coat of blue on when it was a little humid and it will need to be redone in the spring. Follow the instructions very carefully and don't try to push the envelope of temperature and humidity. Trust me on this one. The bottom paint is a submersible but is not an anti fouling paint, as I trailer the boat.
NOTES: To paint the bottom: Remove the inner bunks if your trailer is like mine. Prep and paint all the area you can. Replace the inner bunks and remove the outer ones. Caution: the boat will be less stable on the trailer when sitting on just the inner bunks. Paint the area under the outer bunks and then replace the bunks after the paint cures.
To Remove Center Board: Lower the front of trailer as far as you can. Block the rear. Jack the front of the trailer up with a small hydraulic jack. Block and shim the boat under the bow and lower the trailer out of the way. You will have to build a temporary support block over/around the trailer underneath the bow. Use screws for easy disassembly. My center board cleared when the boat was about five inches above the usual height. The outer bunks were barely in some contact, and the boat was wobbly on the trailer.
Rear Boat Support Block: ( above) This block was made from scrap 2x8" and 2x12" yellow pine boards salvaged from a job site. They are tails left over from cutting rafters. To find these, go to a new housing construction area. Look for houses where the carpenters are cutting and setting their own rafters, as opposed to using pre-assembled truss rafters.
If you ask the foreman, he will probably let you take any tails on the scrap pile. On job sites where burning is permitted these will probably be burnt at the end of the day to keep the homeowner from seeing how much scrap is actually being generated. If burning is not permitted, look in the dumpster.
Mast carrier base: These are just ordinary galvanized hardware store brackets. I used stainless steel bolts to hold them and nothing has rusted in three seasons. Only five feet of mast sticks past the crutch, and the mast is oriented for its greatest strength in the vertical plane so sag is not a problem. I guess I could take off the UPC tags though.
Floor Boards and Dingy Seat: (Right) I just felt like it. The first boats I remember were row boats and all of them had floor boards. When running downwind, I like to stretch out across the back and this way my legs have something to rest on. I also stick the gas can under there if I am planning to carry a motor. The slats and brace are poplar. The brace is screwed into the original seats on both sides. I can sit or stand on the seat, and at 220 lb. the seat holds me fine. These are poplar.
The brace on the back of the cockpit to hold the aft edges of the slats for the dingy seat is poplar 1 1/2" by 3/4". I don't have a picture of this. I put it in boiling water for twenty minutes and then screwed it to the back of the boat. The holes in the wood had been pre-drilled and I used the center hole to mark the cockpit wall, which I pre-drilled to prevent splitting the glass. Moving out from the center I alternated from side to side pre-drilling the cockpit wall and setting each screw. When all five screws were in place, I let the wood alone for three days. It did spring back a little, but not more than the screws could re-bend when installed. I coated the brace with five layers of varnish to seal it well, and put sealant in the screw holes for good measure. It has been in three seasons without apparent rot.
Hatch Slides: You can just see the starboard one in the picture above for the Mast Crutch. The top edges are routed for finish and the angle is cut on a table saw. Poplar again.
In the picture above, some repaired damage is visible. Damage is only gel coat deep and I fixed it early last year per directions in "This Old Boat" using polyester resin. I did not try to match the color because I was planning on painting this year. The repairs have held.
Center Board Trunk Repair: I have decided to use 1 1/2" by 3/4" oak strips glassed in place to carry the center board bolt. I will need to get a new one 1 1/2 inches longer, but I think the arrangement will last longer than the original.
Hatch Trim Board. Made from 3/4 poplar board. Take measurements carefully and then lay them out on the board using a flexible batten to get a fair curve. Cut out the shape and then use your router for a finished edge. If you don't have a band saw or jig saw to cut the finish piece, you can use your table saw. Set the saw for 3/8" cut and crank the blade all the way up for maximum depth of cut. It will not cut all the way through the piece. Set the board on its edge to rip it down to the 3/8" thickness. Cut one side and then turn the piece end-for-end to cut through from the other side. I encourage you to practice this on a scrap piece a couple of times first. And do try to keep your fingers out of the saw. Pre-drill holes in the hatch slightly oversize for the screws to pass through into the board.
The Plexiglas windows in the aft end of the seats was an interesting project, but lets in very little extra light and was probably not worth the effort except for the experience. If you decide to do these, use nylon washers on both sides so when you snug the bolts down you don't crack the plexi. On the plus side, these have been in for five years and have not leaked (yet).