Sanibel 17

Last Updated: Feb. 14, 2015

HIN: CVI0104AG687

CVI - Captiva Yachts, Inc., Oldsmar, Florida.
0104A - 104th boat built.
G6 - Built July 1986.
87 - Model Year = 1987.

Coming Home

Paul sure goes the extra mile for a great boat. Located in Tocoma, Washington, he traveled 2,400 miles to Toledo, Ohio to buy his Sanibel 17 from Bill Crews. After the sale was confirmed, he loaded her up and traveled another 2,400 miles back to Tocoma. 12 days later, with a few visiting stops in between, he arrived safely back in Washington.
As you can see, his Sanbel has both a bow and a stern pulpit. Makes it easier for trailering the mast. Since I do not have a stern pulpit, I had to build a "crutch" for my mast.

Paul sent me some pictures of his new bow and stern support for his mast.

The previous owner tied the mast to the pulpits with a bit of padding. I didn't like that too much because the mast was lying on its side with one of the spreaders sticking up and the stays kinda flopping around.

My bow support is held in place in the pulpit with one wingnut on the wood bar underneath. The mast is held in the support with a flip over wood clamp that is locked with one wingnut. The aft support has a centerpiece that has a wooden hook that slips over the pulpit. The centerpiece is held to the pulpit and the mast to the centerpiece with one bungee. I put on two for redundancy.

The two inverted vee legs are on pivot bolts from the centerpiece to the pulpit stanchions where they clip onto the stanchion with cheek pieces of plywood. The bungee holding the centerpiece down keeps these locked onto the stanchions. They are there to keep the centerpiece vertical. They will stay in place without the bungee when you are raising the mast. I route the three stays forward, over the bow support plate and over the top of the locking bar. Then I can tie the stays to the mast about 18" aft of the pulpit. A few ties (I use my sail ties) along the mast to keep things still when on the road and it's all ready to go.
One other change I've made is to drill and insert a 1/2" bolt through the rear upper part of the rudder cheeks and the rudder. Then for short trips I can leave the rudder in place relying on the pin bolt to keep the rudder retracted. I also have a strap run under my trailer just in case the rope pennant for the centerboard should fail. This way the strap will keep it from descending to the road. The strap is permanent, it doesn't hamper launching or retrieving.